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The Difference Between San Marzano and Other Tomatoes

San Marzano tomatoes are a particular variety of plum tomato that grows in the volcanic soils of the Sarno River Valley in Campania, Italy, and are designated as DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) products that specify where and how they are produced. It is possible for a tomato to be labeled as “San Marzano” but not meet the requirements of being produced in the specified location in accordance with the controlled production methods. The flavor, texture, and water content of the tomato you use to create the sauce will directly influence the flavor of the final sauce, and ultimately the overall performance of the pizza in a high-heat oven. This article explains what makes San Marzano tomatoes unique and why we use them at Quattro in Boston’s North End.

Do San Marzano tomatoes differ from other tomatoes?

Yes, and the differences are clear if you know what to look for. San Marzano tomatoes have a thicker flesh, fewer seeds, and a lower water content than most commercial plum tomatoes or common canned tomatoes. They also have thinner skins that peel off more easily, allowing them to be pureed to a smoother consistency while retaining the body of the tomato. San Marzano tomatoes are naturally sweet and less acidic than many plum tomatoes found in supermarkets. Sauces created from them typically do not require the addition of sugar or additional seasonings to counteract acidity. The quality of the tomato sauce base will determine the quality of all sauces developed from that base, whether that is a simple marinara or a more complex vodka cream sauce.

Where do San Marzano tomatoes originate?

San Marzano tomatoes are grown in the Campania region of Italy near the city of San Marzano sul Sarno and the towns of the Sarno River Valley southeast of Naples. The unique combination of minerals in the volcanic soils of this area contributes to the distinctive flavor profile of San Marzano tomatoes. Only true DOP-certified San Marzano tomatoes may be grown in this region, and they must be picked by hand and then processed using established guidelines. Although wide varieties of tomatoes may be called San Marzano, if they were grown in another region, they are essentially a different product. Just as the quality of the dough defines the crust, the origin of the tomato defines the sauce.

Why do Italian pizzerias prefer to use San Marzano tomatoes above all else?

Italian pizzerias prefer to use San Marzano tomatoes for their superior performance during cooking and the resulting uniformity of the final product. The lower water content in San Marzano tomatoes prevents excessive amounts of water from releasing onto the pizza while it bakes, keeping the dough from becoming soggy and the flavors of the toppings from being diluted. The natural sweetness of the San Marzano tomato eliminates the need to add any additional ingredients to the sauce, reducing the ingredient count and producing a cleaner and more straightforward flavor profile. One of the primary tenets of Neapolitan pizza tradition is to keep the sauce as simple and short as possible and to expect the tomato to provide the majority of the flavor. Authentic brick oven pizza requires that each component be of the highest quality, and the tomato sauce is perhaps the most obvious example of this.

How do San Marzano tomatoes contribute to the flavor of brick oven pizza?

When cooking in an extremely hot brick oven, each component of the pizza is subjected to extreme heat for a relatively short period of time. Tomato sauce that contains excessive amounts of water will steam the dough from beneath, creating sogginess and dilution of flavor, no matter how hot the oven. San Marzano tomatoes, having low moisture levels and a concentrated flavor, withstand these conditions well and actually become even brighter and cleaner in flavor as the oven does its work. The tomato sauce develops a brightness and cleanliness that is absent in flat or cooked-down sauces. The effects of brick oven heat extend beyond the crust and are evident in the tomato sauce before a single topping is added.

Try San Marzano pizza sauce at Quattro in Boston’s North End

Quattro uses San Marzano tomatoes as the base of our pizza sauce because the quality of that single ingredient affects everything that sits atop it. Each element in our brick oven pizzas, from the dough to the sauce to the toppings, is prepared with equal care to ensure it earns its place on the plate. If you find yourself in Boston’s North End and want to experience firsthand the impact that ingredient quality can have on a dish, reserve your table at Quattro and let the pizza speak for itself.